Prius 90,000km service

$187.04.  Actually, $170.04 because my leasing company will be able to claim the GST.  Actually, a bit less, because I’ll pay for that from pre-tax (I think?).  After a servicing few European cars it’s nice to have one that’s cheap to service.

I turned up to pick up my car at 16:30.  There was a waiting room full customers, so I had a quick look at the Prius V i-Tech (finally!) in the showroom.  Walked back to the service reception as several people asked the whereabouts of their cars.  (It had been a busy day and still was.)  Smiling woman told me that mine was the one car that was finished.  Despite the 3 engines, 2 batteries and all those gubbins mine was the only one ready.  Cop that!

The 90,000km / 54 month service is the first one after the first major service, so it would have been a surprise if there was any drama.  I had added a check-list of my own, namely:

  • I would prefer the lightest oil you can reasonably put in.
  • Please check suspension components for wear and recommend.
  • When you rotate the tyres please use 47 psi front, 45 psi rear.
  • Please adjust fog lamps down to correct level.  I fixed them as they were far too low, but I may have gone too high.
  • And  BTW, I fitted a DEFA Engine Block Heater, so don’t panic when you see it.

I should have been more specific about the oil as I was given 10W-30, which is practically treacle.  Sure, 10W-30 has a working range from -18°c to over 38°c and recently we’ve had a lot more of the latter than the former.  But a 0W-20 oil will still work at 38°c but be lighter at normal temperatures.  Why bother?  There are fuel consumption savings in lighter oil.  My old Rover P6B 3500 got better fuel consumption with Penrite 40W-70 than lighter oils but that was because the engine was so worn.  A modern car with 90,000km (much less on the engine, when you think about it) should be just worn-in, not worn-out.

Suspension tested good.  I’m considering some stiffening plates so I wanted to be sure that I wouldn’t make things worse.

I had my good Bridgestone ecopia PZ-X tyres on the front but rotation means that the Ovation ecovision VI-682 get a go.  Fortunately, by the time it gets cold (25 April on the dot) I should have done 5000km and I’ll be able to rotate them back before the tricky road conditions start.  I just noticed that the Chinese tyres have a maximum pressure of 44 psi.  Too bad, there’s 47 psi in there now.  (The ecopias will take 60 psi or more if you’re mad.)

Fog lamps were adjusted down.  You may remember that I adjusted my fog lamps when I fitted the DEFA EBH.  The lamps might have well pointed backwards for all the light they produced.  However, I adjusted them far too high.  Now they seem very low, but better.

I got to talk to the Scottish mechanic when I picked up the car and showed him the DEFA EBH.  He was impressed.

Oh, and it does look like they replaced the air conditioning filter but didn’t charge me for it.  They’re about $50 each.

And special mention to the mechanic who discovered that the left-hand-side rear body support was loose and the bolt was cross-threaded.  Now I don’t hear a rattle when I go over a bump, something I was blaming on the loose rear spoiler.  Nice work!

No doubt I’ll be contacted by Canberra Toyota to see how my service experience was.  I’ll have to tell them about the oil, the rear body support… and the A/C filter.

Prius mods 5 – a few bits and pieces

The latest round of mods comes from the Prius Club of Queensland from where you can buy some of those spiffy accessories you’ve only seen on the PriusChat Shop.  Parcel arrived on Saturday (well, this is Canberra) so I was able to get started in the afternoon.

Cam you spot all four mods?
Can you spot all four mods?

Front weather shields – ClimAir Profi

It’s been so hot the past few weeks that I’ve left a gap in the front windows whenever I parked the car.  However, this can allow rain (what rain?) and dust to get in.  The ClimAir Profi weather shields are very slender and are made in Germany where, as Vince reminds us, they always make good stuff.  On days when it’s not too hot or there’s a nice breeze, opening the windows a crack can be more pleasant than A/C.

Fitting was straightforward and without clips.  The weather shield bends just enough to allow fitting without fixtures.  Getting the rubber on the right side of the shield is a bit tricky.  Don’t be tempted to remove the clear sticker at the bottom; it protects the lower window rubber from direct contact.

The instructions advise closing the window 5 times to seat them.  John advised me to manually lift the windows until they are fully raised (the AUTO function will bounce back) and leave them for a few days.  Perhaps because of the hot weather, after just one day the AUTO function was mostly working without resistance.

Since I am aiming for an aerodynamic package, why would I fit something to spoil the clean lines.  There are conditions where an open window is more efficient than using A/C, as long as the HV battery remains cool.  (Yes, A/C in a Prius is for more than just personal comfort.)  Any concern I had disappeared when I noticed that the AeroPrius YuraStyle NEO sports similar weather shields front and rear.  Good enough for him to do 1000 miles with, good enough for me.

Thin weather shield on the front window
Thin weather shield on the front window

Rear bumper protector

My bumper is already scratched.  Getting a protector is as much to hide the scratches as to protect from more.  But there is something to be said about the way that the black sets off nicely with the black window and spoiler and the red.  (Should I get smoked tail-light lens covers to complete the look?)

Alignment is easy since the centre ridge aligns to the door strike.  There’s also a tiny mark that seems to be a moulding point for the bumper.

The mistake I made at first was to place it hard against the panel under the tailgate.  Some persuasion later (that stuff is sticky!) I was able to reposition the protector back 10mm so that the curve in the protector matched the curve in the bumper.

Spider web on fuel tank cap

Prius joke.  Some might say it looks funnier on a Landcruiser.  You be the judge.

After washing the area with standard car shampoo, I prepared the surface with Repco Wax and Grease Remover, or “panel wipe” as television’s Edd China would say.  This really cleans the surface and gets rid of anything that might affect the adhesion.  Forget glass cleaner, this stuff gets it clean.

Pulling the decal off its backing was fun, as the thin sticker stretched and stuck to itself; a bit like the real thing.  After I’d placed it on car I had to lift some ends to remove kinks (boy it stretches!).  I used a sharp blade to cut the web and wrapped those bits into the gap.  Zoom in on the photo above for detail.

Shark-fin antenna

Shark fin is a literally tasteless ingredient of expensive soup in Asia.  You can get the same texture from gelatin or vermicelli at a fraction of the cost.

By contrast, a shark fin antenna is so cool.  Again I washed and then cleaned with panel wipe to get a good surface.  Fitting is a bit of a chore; it is easy to get it all out of whack.  I used a long rule across the back to check the alignment against the tailgate window gap.  The rear window washer jet was a reference point for the centre.  Once the antenna is positioned, use masking tape at the front edge and then the sides; when the antenna is stuck down within these guides it should be in perfect alignment.

Attaching the cable to the antenna socket required a washer (not provided) to give a tight connection.

Sticking the antenna while checking the alignment was a little fiddly, but worth it; it is much smaller than the standard whip.  There is some debate over whether the original antenna is within the surface layer of air and therefore changing to a flatter antenna has no effect.  It sure looks cooler and reception is fine.

The only problem is that the new 3R3 Wildfire Red Mica paint on the antenna is much more vibrant than the rest of the paint.  That will buff out.

Thanks to John from the Prius Club of Queensland for the goods and good advice.

Canberra-Sydney Loop – Better economy

The latest run from Canberra to Sydney and back produced a very good result.  Temperature range was 10°c to 22°c on the way up and 20°c to 13°c on the way back.

I filled up at Sutton Forest, halfway to Sydney.  After 796.5 km, of which about 20% was city driving, I put in 34.49 litres for an average of 4.3l/100km Cost was $1.49.9 for Shell 91 RON.  (The HSI displayed 4.1l/100km.)

L/100km MPG(UK) MPG(US) km/L
4.3 (tank) 65.7 55.0 23.3

From fill-up to Newtown and then the City ended as 132.9km for 3.4l/100km at an average of 86km/h.  Adding 5.8% to the HSI display gives 3.6l/100km.  (Corrected figures shown in italics.)  That’s my best ever run into Sydney, though it doesn’t include the hills between Canberra and Sutton Forest.

L/100km Corrected MPG(UK) MPG(US) km/L
3.4 (HSI) 3.6 78.5 65.7 27.8

Return trip was quite cool.  Sydney didn’t get very warm on Saturday and the temperature dropped steadily as we travelled South.  I used 2/3 lower grill block on the way up, in case I encountered temperatures much above 18°c on the way up.  After a brief stop on the way back, I restored the full grill block.  Upon return, the tank trip was 418.8km, 4.0l/100km (4.2 corrected) at 79km/h.

The Canberra to Sydney loop was 564.0km, 4.1l/100km at 80km/h.

L/100km Corrected MPG(UK) MPG(US) km/L
4.0 (HSI) 4.2 66.8 55.8 23.6
4.1 (HSI) 4.3 65.1 54.5 23.1

Why the improvement from previous loops?

I’d put it down to never using the cruise control.

The beauty of the Prius’ cruise control is that it can regulate speed very well.  If you are coming down a steep hill, it can use regenerative braking to hold your speed.  (If the HV battery is already charged, the engine will be forced to run to “burn off” some of the excess charge.  This is also the only time that you would use the B (Brake) position; to prevent overcharging.)

Steep hills can be easily scaled by changing to the PWR Mode so that the speed doesn’t decrease as much before the acceleration takes over.  Leave it in ECO Mode and the speed will drop so far that all resources will be called upon to leap back to the set speed; a far less economical way to drive.

Radar cruise control in the iTech is even spiffier.  Except that every press of the accelerate or decelerate lever changes speed by 1 km/h and every long press by 10 km/h.  While this is very logical (Mercedes-Benz use this method) and is more accurate than holding until the desired speed is reached, it did catch out Steve “Woz” Wozniak, allegedly.

Freeway Driving without Cruise Control

How can I even suggest such a thing?  Surely CC makes a journey bearable.  Well… the Canberra to Sydney run is not very flat and once you reach the flat sections, the traffic increases.  Neither are ideal conditions for cruise control. And the Prius will allow me to take over from the CC, however results can be mixed.  If I am pushing the accelerator, say to speed up before a steep hill, but the car dips below the set speed, CC will not try to maintain the set speed.  Take my foot off the accelerator, the CC springs back into life.  I expect my foot to complement CC, not override it.

ECO Mode makes the accelerator less sensitive, which in turn makes it easier for the right leg to control speed.  Using Pulse and Glide techniques, long downhills can be used to charge the HV battery, or increase speed.  In short, you can control what the CC can’t see.

Having throttle control allows me to find the Super Highway Mode for very low consumption driving at high speed.  I was able to maintain 2.0 – 3.0 l/100 km at 110km/h for flat and slightly downhill sections by keeping the Ignition Timing (IGN) in the range +12-+16.  In fact, I was merely reading the instantaneous FC figure from the Scangauge-e rather than resorting to maths.

Because the accelerator pedal is quite light in ECO Mode, driving is not a chore.  And since I don’t have radar CC, I find myself cancelling CC when approaching slower traffic anyway.

I’ll use the CC selectively in future.


Canberra, Sydney, Newcastle – better economy already

I’ll be taking a few more trips to Newcastle over the new few months. My father is recovering well and we’re helping him with a few jobs around the house. So there’s a few chances to baseline the fuel consumption under fairly arduous conditions. Parameters:

  • Tyres at 45psi
  • Lower grill fully blocked
  • Full tank of Caltex 91 RON (ethanol free)
  • Temperature 10 – 20°c

The run from Canberra to Northern Sydney was at night from just after 21:00. Not much traffic and sticking to the limit, even up hills. The mythical Super Highway Mode still eludes me. Rather than cut through Bankstown, Rhodes and Ryde, which is nice but hilly, I took the M7 and M2. I chose that route as I assumed that the roadwork I had encountered on the M2 a few weeks previously would either be finishing or would at the very least be no worse. Boy was I wrong. The entire stretch of the M2 I used was a 40km/h zone (I remembered it as a 60km/h zone!) adding about 30 minutes to an already long journey. Arriving at midnight is not too bad. Arriving after 00:30 seems silly.

Early start to Newcastle on the F3 carrying a niece and nephew as cargo. The F3 is a bit busy and a bit hilly for cruise control. Pleasant drive interrupted by a wanker driving a black Volvo XC90 who overtook in the left hand lane (contravening Rule 141 and common sense) and then cut me off received a good toot from my horn and some choice words from the grown ups. Language warning belatedly given to the young children in the back seats. Obligatory toilet stop at Ourimbah for the youngsters didn’t delay things too much, I thought.

After a highly productive day we returned in 3 cars: Sister and brother-in-law ahead, us in the middle and Dad behind. We managed to maintain this order for the entire journey and for some parts had no other vehicles in between. I thought that I should keep an eye on Dad so I kept a reasonable distance ahead of him. This meant charging up the many steep hills on the F3 at nearly full power. Not great for fuel consumption. Here’s the funny thing; our formation flying was a complete fluke. Dad had left before us but had discovered a new dead end. The two other cars left together, but the superior torque of the Citroën turbo diesel allowed it to overtake on Carnley Avenue. Dad appeared in my rear vision mirror and stayed there for most of the journey. Arrived in Northern Sydney within 2 minutes of each other.

Roundabout way of saying that we travelled 854.6km (about 10km past the DTE=0km mark) using 38.22l of petrol at 4.47l/100km. Considering the flogging I gave the car, it was about 0.5l/100km better than I would have expected a few months ago. The return journey to Canberra was 284.0km at 4.6l/100km (4.2 on the HSI) at an average speed of 92km/h.

So, did the grill blocking help? It’s possible that it helped the aerodynamics at high speed. Just wait until the next tank fill; I’m expecting low 4’s. That’s almost certainly down to the rising temperatures.  And the grill block.

Plug-in Conversion – things to consider

I’m considering a plug-in conversion for the Prius. The factory PiP (Plug-in Prius) is not sold in Australia but conversions by NilCO2 and others have been around for several years. A few thoughts come to mind:

  1. What size of pack should I get?
  2. Should it supplement or replace the HV battery? (Related to size)
  3. How much can I afford?
  4. Does that mean I’ll have to plug the EBH at the front and the battery at the rear?

An engine block heater is a perfect option for a PiP (Plug-in Prius). A warm engine does not need to start at all! Drive on battery without needing to run the engine to heat it.
However, if my DEFA socket is at the front and the plug-in socket is at the rear, which way do I park the car?
Here are my thoughts…

  1. Since the car needs 2 cables, move the DEFA socket closer to the Toyota socket, perhaps to the rear bumper. That would make plugging and unplugging a little more convenient
  2. Following on from 1., add a MultiCharger to the DEFA EBH. Since the 12V battery is in the rear the cable has to run the rear anyway, moving the DEFA socket to the rear bumper makes sense.
  3. If it were a factory Toyota PiP then DEFA could make a special cable that would interface with the Toyota PiP socket. (The PiP socket looks like another fuel cap on the opposite side.). So one cable could power both.
  4. For a retro-fit PiP, the DEFA cable could be connected to the same socket on the rear bumper

A few issues!

  • Do I want the EBH + HV battery charging on at the same time? So I’ll have to add the SmartStart timer or I’ll be warming the engine all night.
  • Will there be enough space in the sills to carry the DEFA cable to the back? There’s a lot of cable in there already. More research needed.

I’m sure that DEFA would love to have an integrated solution to work with the PiP. (Bjørn, are you still reading my blog?)

First 1000km tank

I’ve spent 9 months learning about the Prius and how to get the best out of it.  Finally! After many attempts, much frustration and a little learning I have broken into the 600 mile and the 1000km club.

First 1000km tank. The “CONS: 3.9l/100km” is optimistic by about 5.8% as the true figure was just over 4.1l/100km.  And I was still nowhere near empty.

1002.8km (622 miles) at 4.125l/100km (68.5 mpg(Imp) 57.3 mpg(US) 24.2km/l) at an average speed of 44km/h (27mph). (The HSI displays 3.9l/100km as it is optimistic by about 5.8%.)

I used 41.37l from a 45l tank of 94RON E10 from Shell. While Toyota Australia recommends 95 RON, I follow advice from PriusChat that recommends that anything over 91 RON is not worth the extra.

Sadly, the joy of reaching 1000km coincided with a 12¢ jump in petrol prices to $1.57.9 per litre.  At current exchange rates that’s AUD6.00/ USD6.21 per US gallon.  It cost me $65.32 (USD67.63) to fill up.

Recent mods include fill 100% lower grill blocking and 45psi in the tyres. The weather over the last 3 weeks has been about 5-10°c warmer than during my last tank (4.6l/100km), which is probably a key factor.

As previously posted the Distance to Empty calculation is very conservative.  DTE=0km was reached at about 865km, so I beat my previous beyond zero record of 35km by over 100km.
Not to sound unkind, but my wife, who thinks that P&G is a company that makes toiletries, tends to drive as if the accelerator and brake were on/off switches. She drove about 200km of that tank at about 5.0l/100km, so my achievement is even better than I expected.

Read more:

Fuel Consumption trends –


I keep track of my petrol use on It has a simple interface and lets you record all manner of details in one place.  You can compare your car to the same model; there’s even 3 Trabants!

Here’s my stats and trends since January 2012:

Fuel Consumption

  • Average: 4.8L/100km
  • Last: 4.6L/100km
  • Best: 4.5L/100km

Filling Up

  • Average distance per tank: 719.7km
  • Best distance for a tank: 859.7km

The Distance to Empty (DTE) display is very conservative.  It reads 0km when there is clearly a lot of petrol in the tank.  I once drove 35km beyond DTE = 0km and still only put 40.59L into a 45L tank.  Could I have reached 965km (600 miles), I wonder?

Here’s a trend in L/100km from January 2012 to October.  Despite the weather getting significantly colder and only now starting to warm up again, my fuel consumption (FC) has trended down from 5’s to mid-4s’.  A combination of driving style and modifications have helped me improve FC against a tide that would tend to increase FC.  Yes, there was one particularly cold, foggy, wet and miserable day when I drove to Sydney and back using the A/C and rear defogger for most of the journey (and a flattening rear tyre) that pushed my into 5.1 territory.  Will I start getting regular tanks below 4.5 now that the weather is warmer?Image

Here’s the same data in Miles per US Gallon.  To compare, the US EPA lists the Prius as 51/48/50 City/Highway/combined MPG, so I’m starting to get better than EPA.Image

You don’t have to be slightly obsessive like me to record your fuel consumption on a website.  We can remember how much we spent on fuel, but we rarely know how much fuel we are using.  Keeping track tank by tank can help show if there’s a problem with your car in a way that keeping track of money spent cannot: prices fluctuate, the size of your tank does not.

Sign up to and find out how much fuel you’re really using.


ScanGauge e – and a big thanks to Jon

I read a Prius forum based in the USA, I’ve joined what seems to be the only Prius club in Australia, which is based in Queensland and apart from the white GenII with the Tesla sticker I see in Belconnen, there doesn’t seem to be a hardcore Prius scene in Canberra.  I see a few Gen II, Gen III and Prius v, but none seem to have been modified or tinkered with in any way.

So it has taken me from Australia Day until the end of September to finally meet someone who knows his LOD from his LHK.

Jon was visiting Canberra for Floriade (you really must see it) and took some time away from his family to meet me, talk Prius and sell me a ScanGauge-e.  Here’s the thing… the reason he had one for sale is that he had already reached the limit of 4 ScanGauges daisy-chained together and couldn’t fit any more.

Jon has not 1, but 4 ScanGauges and a tyre pressure monitor in his Gen II. Every conceivable piece of data captured.

As mentioned, I already use a Garmin 2460LT GPS and Garmin Mechanic with ecoRoute™ HD.  The ecoroute captures data from the OBDCII port and transmits them by Bluetooth to the GPS for display.  It is even clever enough to store capture data until the GPS is connected.

In my short time of using the ScanGauge-e I can say that there’s a fair degree of overlap with the functions in the ecoroute.  However, there’s a difference in how data are presented: The Garmin has separate screens for Fuel Consumption, ‘eco score’, 5 gauges (out of a choice of 12) and of course the map.  ScanGauge-e has a 2 line dot matrix display that can display two parameters from a choice of 19 and a fuel consumption graph.  Both have a method of recording fuel used, but whereas the ecoroute records each fill up on a spreadsheet, the ScanGauge uses the data to calibrate and calculate Distance to Empty and similar functions.  Since the DTE function on the Prius is incredibly conservative (I drove 35 km beyond the DTE = 0km mark at freeway speeds and still had 4 litres of fuel left) having an independent DTE is a boon, especially if I want to hit my first 1000 km tank in relative safety.

Jon helped with the initial set-up and calibration.  I even had to fill up, which is the time to start the calibration.  Only problem was the fuel price set at $75.0.  Despite holding the button in, the value took a long time to change.  Of course, the hidden cents value was dropping rapidly, but only the tens of cents value was displayed.  Today I used a handy clamp to wind the price back to a more realistic cost per litre.  Only took 20 minutes to reach $1.46.

My clamp-based, button-holding, value-reducing solution.  Halfway there

Makeshift installation was a bit wiry.  The OBDCII splitter worked fine (you can’t always feed OBDC data to two devices). The main issue was the amount of cable to conceal and devices to place.  Today I re-installed all of my devices in the interests of safety and efficiency.  I routed the cables under the steering column, using some unused switch blanks to enter and exit the dash.

Neat. In a fashion


Prius Mods 4 – Grill Block

Just as Winter is starting to wane, I finally blocked the grill.

DEFA cable socket (left of the Toyota badge) and grill block

There’s two main purposes to block the grill:

  1. Reduce the cooling effect so the engine warms quicker and stays warmer longer; and
  2. Improve aerodynamics.

After a sample size of one day, it appears to be working.  I took a few trips today recording 3.3l\100km (according to the Garmin ecorouteHD)  The final trip from Fyshwick to home, at high speed, using A/C and with no particular care or techniques returned 3.7l/100km.  The proof will be in the next few tanks, so I should wait before judgement.

BTW, the Garmin ecorouteHD can display the coolant temperature as a number, unlike the warning light as standard.  Coolant never went over 91°c.

Prius Mods part 3.4 – DEFA SafeStart finally installed!

I have finally installed the DEFA SafeStart permanently.  We left the story at Prius Mods part 3.3 – DEFA SafeStart WarmUp cable installation with the cable attached to the coolant overflow bottle with a cable tie.  To warm the engine I had to open the bonnet (hood) to fit and remove the power cable.  Not ideal.

I just finished fitting a lower grill block (See Prius Mods part 4 – later) when I decided to fit the cable once and for all.  I was going to have to find a way to route the cable from the upper grill (necessitated by blocking the lower grill) to the EBH.

Note: The official DEFA fitting instructions for the Prius put the socket in the lower grill, but don’t indicate how to route the cable.  My  method doesn’t leave much slack in the cable, but it isn’t stretched.

DEFA Connector Cable with fasteners. Note that “A” will be on the outside, there’s no O-ring and fastener “F” will be fitted backwards.

Step 1: I had to remove cable from EBH.  Fortunately, I could reach over the engine and down to the back of the block to remove the cable.  YAMV (Your Arm-age May Vary)

Tools: Pliers, Kincrome panel levers, Supatool 10mm socket with ratchet handle and ratchet wheel, pearl catch
Pop panel pins to remove cover. There’s 9 more pop pins and two bolts hiding under here.

Step 2: Remove the 3 pop pins and the front cover.  Underneath you’ll find 9 similar pop pins and two 10mm bolts holding the top of the bumper in place.  When finished, you should be able to separate the front panel far enough forward to slide your arm between the radiator and the grill.  If not, get a small urchin to help you.

Some things unclip to make replacing a headlamp bulb easier/possible. For this job, remove the lot.

Step 3: Make space.  Remove this lot and you’ll have adequate.

  1. Unclip the hose from the coolant overflow bottle (not shown)
  2. Remove the 2 x 10 mm bolts from behind the airbox
  3. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the airbox and clip
  4. Unclip the hose from its bracket
  5. Remove the airbox by twisting slightly and pulling to the left to separate it from the air-cleaner housing.

Step 4: The socket will not fit through the grill, so you’ll have to feed it in from the outside.  Fit part “A” (three pins facing out) to the cable.  Slide the cable into the grille; it will bulge a little.  Feed part “F” backwards, so that the thread will register, and tighten.

Step 5: Finding the gap around the radiator is not easy.  You think you’ve found it and then you’re blocked by a plastic bracket in front of the radiator.  Hint: Lift the inverter coolant (?) hose and feed the pearl catch or similar tool through the gap.

Looking from the rear – The gap between the radiator and body is just big enough for two

Step 6: Attach the cable to the pearl catch and gently pull the cable through the gap.  I used some 13mm pipe insulation to protect the cable.  A bit of fettling and it’s in place.

Cable run, protected by 13mm pipe insulation passes over an A/C line and the engine mount.  Earth lead is temporarily taped to the negative charging terminal

Step 7: Run the cable down the right-hand-side of the engine. (“Right” as seen from the rear of the car.)  I used another length of pipe insulation to “attach” the cable to the engine mount.  Note: Check as you go that you aren’t twisting or stretching the cable.

Step 8: Attach the cable to the EBH.  I could do this by reaching over the engine from above.  Hint: The earth cable is at the bottom of the plug and should line up to the bottom of the socket on the EBH.  Of course, you can always see better from under the car.

Step 9: Put everything back where you found it.  Note: I use the 10mm bolt that attaches the airbox to the engine mount to attach the earth lead.

DEFA SafeStart socket mounted in the upper grill – Prius NVW30